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Post by 94m6hardtopz on Oct 12, 2005 1:21:45 GMT -5
fu(k, if its burning that much oil or fuel the plugs will be fouled. check and see if they are oil or fuel fouled.
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Post by the94z on Oct 12, 2005 7:47:24 GMT -5
Checked some plugs none are fouled.....will check the the oil level and get back to yall...btw if the oil level stays the same then what is it?
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Post by 1bad2k2ta on Oct 12, 2005 8:09:56 GMT -5
Checked some plugs none are fouled.....will check the the oil level and get back to yall...btw if the oil level stays the same then what is it? If it isn't consuming any oil, then the smoke you are seeing is not from burned oil, so probably rich condition caused by bad O2 sensors. |
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Post by the94z on Oct 12, 2005 10:53:50 GMT -5
Yeah but ive had bad 02 sensors in my old z28 and it would throw a code....btw i have an obd1 right so if i get it scanned it has to be obd1? And o2 sensors would cause the problems im having?
Well i marked my dipstick with a sharpie( was kind of hard to tell where the oil was because the stick and the oil are same color.) i will see if in the next two days it burns any oil. And also when i smell the smoke at idle it smells like octane..not a burnt smell, the burnt smell is when i start it while warm though...
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Post by the94z on Oct 12, 2005 10:57:40 GMT -5
And also then you are telling me a rich condition could cause white or blusih smoke...ahhh so someone needs to correct that myth of only black smoke means rich...
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Post by 1bad2k2ta on Oct 12, 2005 12:02:51 GMT -5
And also then you are telling me a rich condition could cause white or blusih smoke...ahhh so someone needs to correct that myth of only black smoke means rich... Not saying that at all. If smoke is coming from your exhaust, it can only be fuel, oil, coolant, or a combination of any 2 or 3 of them. Never seen a rich condition where the smoke was anything other than black. Blue smoke is oil, white smoke is coolant (not smoke, steam). This is tough to diagnose without being able see what you are seeing and determining where it is coming from. Are you sure it is coming out of the exhaust and not maybe something dripping on the exhaust? |
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Post by the94z on Oct 12, 2005 19:35:38 GMT -5
Ok to put it simply...So far this is what i see.
1.Whitish blusish smoke that varies in smeel from gas to burnt...sorta on warm startups and on warm idle only when oil pressure reaches under 10psi. Also when i rev the engine
2. Fixed exhaust leak and valve cover grommet and changed oil to 20w 50
3. Oil pressure went from being 0psi to 20 psi at idle( but only sometimes, because it will suddenly drop under 10psi and the car will smoke at an idle...but you can see that just changing the oil from 10w30 to 20w50 changed the oil pressure....and helped with the smoke a bit.
4. Still smokes but oil pressure is at least better most of the time.
6. It is coming out of the exhaust.
7. I have no cat or muffler, straight pipe, and flat top pistons( heard they can account for oil burning?)
8.Have new pcv valve but havent tried to plug up the hole to see if smoke stops...
9. Marked disptick and will recheck in a couple of days..
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Post by Fire67 on Oct 13, 2005 9:47:17 GMT -5
crap! Where should i put my hand to find if i have an intake oil leak? And btw....shop found valve cover wasnt leaking just a small grommet...but now they did find A BIG EXHAUST LEAK! Could this cause anything? Its right where my ypipe meets my collector....and they are changing my oil...they say 0w20 is what i should run under 20k miles...so they putting some of that( valvoline..is it good enough for my car?)...what do yall think? P.s they tried to tell me my bearings are bad...but i dont hear anything and the mech gauge on oil pressure showed 10psi for every 1k rpms. 0w20?  I think that is to thin of oil. 5w30 should be sufficient. You can spray brake clean along the edge of the intake (at the gskts) while it is running to see if you have a leak. It the car tries to die while doing this...you have a leak. If he's getting oil from the intake gasket, it will come from the bottom edge of the gasket, not the top edge. The brake clean idea would work if you were worrying about a vacuum leak at the gasket, but not if its leaking on the lifter valley side, which is where oil would come from. The onlly way to check is to remove the intake and look for oil in the ports and/or soaking the gasket. Id do this as a last resort thing, I like the idea of testing for oil consumption first. |
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Post by 94m6hardtopz on Oct 14, 2005 1:02:58 GMT -5
the spark plugs should tell the tale. once you get that thing broken in do yourself a favor and fill the crankcase with redline 10w40.
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Post by the94z on Oct 16, 2005 14:03:01 GMT -5
Im gonna stick with purple or why that redline? And i like 20w50 that im using unsynthetic....well i checked and it doesnt burn or leak oil....exhaust smoke burns my eyes though.
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Post by 94m6hardtopz on Oct 16, 2005 23:49:51 GMT -5
because redline is a true synthetic base stock and you will have better oil pressure with the 10w40 redline then the 20w50. or at least, i do.
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Post by the94z on Oct 17, 2005 1:15:10 GMT -5
Oh really...isnt sythetic thinner oil? And i only go with companies that focus on oil and not other by-products as well. Like purple. Does redline have this quality or reputation?
P.s GUYS ITS NOT BURNING OIL!
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Post by the94z on Oct 17, 2005 1:58:37 GMT -5
ALso i heard i have an oil pressure sensor. And i heard its bad to run cold( im running like 175ish)...maybe its a bad oil pressure senosr I heard it also controls fuel pump and temp....
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Post by 94m6hardtopz on Oct 18, 2005 7:29:18 GMT -5
you cant compare a synthetic base stock to a non synthetic base stock. the redline 10w40 has more sheer strength at 300* then the mineral 20w50s. it also has better oil pres even tho its thinner. im not a big fan of the royal purple street oil. their race oil is decent, but for a street car the redline is the way to go. in my POS i run the cheapest oil on the shelf. for my Z i pay $8/quart. all the winston cup teams run redline, it cant be bad.
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Post by the94z on Oct 18, 2005 14:43:42 GMT -5
ok so redline 10w40....synthetic right? Thats what its called? And where can i get this stuff?
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Post by 94m6hardtopz on Oct 18, 2005 16:33:47 GMT -5
you can get the redline at summit or jegs. since your in TX the 10w40 will be good. thats what i use and im up here in denton.
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Post by the94z on Oct 19, 2005 1:38:36 GMT -5
wait....i have to order? nah ill stick with mobil 1 full synthetic...is that ok? or at least refer me to the best oil i can get without ordering! Something that will raise my oil pressure!
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Post by 94m6hardtopz on Oct 19, 2005 14:13:12 GMT -5
whats the problem with ordering it?
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Post by the94z on Oct 19, 2005 17:15:51 GMT -5
you have to pay shipping! And you have to wait! And you have to go through this waste of time every 3k miles!!
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Post by 94m6hardtopz on Oct 20, 2005 12:17:19 GMT -5
you only change redline every 7K. you change the filter every 3500 and refill the system with what came out of the filter. i guess you wont be happy to know that redline is about $8/quart. its the price of good oil. i either run $8/quart $hit, or castrol gtx. i dont waste my money on the intermediate stuff that isnt much better then gtx. if its that big a deal then dont use it, but its one of the best oils on the market. you get what you pay for. and i dont cheap out when it comes to oil.
as far as shipping goes, you have to pay tax when you buy in state. and as far as the waste of time, order it before you need it. i really dont see what the problem is.
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Post by the94z on Oct 20, 2005 21:14:48 GMT -5
THE SHIPPING AND THE PRICE!! HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE TO GET HERE! AND THEY SEll filters? so mobil1 isnt good then?
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Post by 94m6hardtopz on Oct 21, 2005 4:33:10 GMT -5
so you are willing to pay $5/quart +tax for something you can get at walmart that doesnt even have a synthetic base, rather then pay $8/quart +7 shipping for something that you can run twice as long before oil changes and you have to wait 3 days from the time that you order it if you use cheap shipping. that doesnt make a whole lotta sense. as far as filters, i run either wix 51060 or ac delco pf1218 available at many parts stores. run what you like. its your motor.
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Post by the94z on Oct 22, 2005 13:10:01 GMT -5
dont get mad at me.... and i wanna run k and n filter with redline!
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Post by Fasglas on Oct 22, 2005 19:06:03 GMT -5
Run the oil you want. Mobil 1 is very good oil. Mobil 1 filters are also very good. All new Corvettes have come filled with Mobil 1 from the factory for quite a few years now. Mobil 1 is a proven oil that performs well. I also use Red Line, but only in my best high hp race motors. I use Mobil 1 in everything else.
0w-20 oil is too thin for you to run in Texas during the summer.
5w-30 is recommended in the newer cars only because it saves a tiny amount of fuel during warm up which also slightly lowers emissions during this short warm-up period. GM is pressured to recommend this weight from outside sources.
10w-30 is what I would run, and it's what I do run.
20w-50 is probably a bit thick for cold start-ups during the winter. But if you're having low oil pressure problems and smoking problems then I can see using it.
8 psi at idle is very low oil pressure, according to GM it is acceptable, but just barely.
From reading your thread I would recommend you take your car to a different shop next time. There are several things they did and told you that makes me think you could find a better place to take your car.
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Post by 94m6hardtopz on Oct 22, 2005 20:09:39 GMT -5
dont get mad at me.... and i wanna run k and n filter with redline! im not mad. its your car. i just dont understand your reasoning, thats all. |
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I think that is to thin of oil. 5w30 should be sufficient. You can spray brake clean along the edge of the intake (at the gskts) while it is running to see if you have a leak. It the car tries to die while doing this...you have a leak.