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Post by Fire67 on Nov 14, 2005 11:00:16 GMT -5
The seal for my water pump drive is leaking oil all over my opti. I have an electric H20 pump so the drive just sits there spinning.
Can the seal be replaced without removing the timing cover? I really dont want to make my oil pan start leaking like a siv.
I already replaced the seal for the opti when I last had it off, and the crank seal doesnt leak.
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Post by Alex94TAGT on Nov 14, 2005 17:15:40 GMT -5
Yes, this can be done. I've done it before.
Removing the old seal is somewhat of a pain. It helps if you have a seal puller tool.
The big question is whether or not you still have the old waterpump drive coupler. The idea is that you lightly sand off / clean the outer surface of that coupler, then slip the new seal ONTO the coupler with a dab of oil. You can then install the coupler onto the driveshaft protruding from the timing cover. This will prevent the seal from ripping as you install it, as well as keep everything aligned for you.
You can then use a large deep-socket OVER the drive coupler, and hammer the seal into place.
Make sense?
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Post by Fire67 on Nov 15, 2005 9:03:43 GMT -5
I do not have the old coupler, I dont even have the guts anymore... But my buddy might have one sitting around, I'll check.
That makes perfect sense for the install, Im still unsure of the removal though... The timing cover has a notch on the circumference of the seal that looks like it will fit a small flat screw driver nicely. Maybe I'll try to pry at it there... I dont have a seal puller tool, so I might go try to buy one.
Thanks for the suggestions though, I never even thought of using the old drive coupler to ease installation.
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Post by Fire67 on Nov 21, 2005 10:01:42 GMT -5
After this weekend, I dont want to see another oil or coolant leak ever again!!!
Anyway, I had no luck getting the seal out with a seal puller, but a small screwdriver and hammer worked great... Getting the seal on was definitely difficult, I couldnt find my old drive coupler, so I used a socket. It took a while to find a perfectly sized socket but once I did, the seal went on smoothly. Once again, thanks Alex!
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Post by fast93z on Nov 24, 2005 10:17:39 GMT -5
You can do like most people with an electric water pump. Either weld up the hole in the cover......or a half dollar coin fits perfect in the hole. You can JB weld it in or rtv. I have welded them on some and put the coin in them on others. ;D
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Post by 93yellowfbody on Nov 24, 2005 11:48:06 GMT -5
You can do like most people with an electric water pump. Either weld up the hole in the cover......or a half dollar coin fits perfect in the hole. You can JB weld it in or rtv. I have welded them on some and put the coin in them on others. ;D kool |
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Post by Fire67 on Nov 24, 2005 12:07:45 GMT -5
You can do like most people with an electric water pump. Either weld up the hole in the cover......or a half dollar coin fits perfect in the hole. You can JB weld it in or rtv. I have welded them on some and put the coin in them on others. ;D I used the freeze plug looking seal the water pump came with on the pump housing itself. It doesn't leak at all. The leak I was having was coming from the seal on the timing cover where the drive for the pump protrudes. |
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Post by fast93z on Nov 25, 2005 10:22:00 GMT -5
Thats the hole I am talking about. Take the drive out of the block and then you can plug the cover. Take the seal out of the front cover and weld it or plug it with a coin.
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Post by Fire67 on Nov 25, 2005 11:42:21 GMT -5
Thats the hole I am talking about. Take the drive out of the block and then you can plug the cover. Take the seal out of the front cover and weld it or plug it with a coin. Oh ok! Now I understand ya... My goal was to fix the leak without having to pull the timing cover... Im getting a new motor in the works, and simply did not want to go that far on the stock one. Mainly because every time i've slightly lowered the pan in order to remove the timing cover, I've been rewarded with a fixed leak at the cover, but a new and bad leak at the pan. Althought the leak at the pan probably wont hurt the opti, I dont want the marks on my driveway, and I dont want to replace that seal too. |
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Post by Fire67 on Nov 25, 2005 11:44:23 GMT -5
On the new motor, I will weld the hole in the cover shut, to eliminate the possibility of it becoming a problem.
I heard there is a part available from GM to plug the hole for the opti too. Since I will either be running a rear mount dist. or non at all, this hole will need to be plugged permanently.
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vicious95z28
Stock
And the light shineth in darkness and the dark comprehendeth it not!
Posts: 10
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Post by vicious95z28 on Jan 6, 2006 22:40:52 GMT -5
I would like to know how you plan to use no distibutor at all. Even the Delteq kits require the partial use of the opti for the cam sensor. I don't mean this to sound like I'm being a smart mouth. I would just like to be educated.
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Post by Fire67 on Jan 9, 2006 12:04:23 GMT -5
I would like to know how you plan to use no distibutor at all. Even the Delteq kits require the partial use of the opti for the cam sensor. I don't mean this to sound like I'm being a smart mouth. I would just like to be educated. If you step up to aftermarket engine management, it can be done. The easiest way is to run BS3(Big Stuff 3) with their 24X crank trigger wheel and a GM oil pump drive/cam trigger. I have the part # for the cam trigger somewhere... But it requires the intake to be modded for a dist., and its basically a plug that sits in there with the cam trigger on top (No cap/rotor). Then just install LS1 coils wired into the BS3 with the available harness and your done. With a FAST or DFI system, it becomes more complicated and more expensive because you have to buy additional controls for the LS1 coils. |
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