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Post by turtle on May 7, 2005 21:29:29 GMT -5
I've been debating on blowing my motor or just saying f**ck it and rebuild the top end of my motor. Which one is better?  |
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Post by 94m6hardtopz on May 7, 2005 21:58:19 GMT -5
i like NA for a couple reasons. first is the high compression of the lt1s that make them prone to deonation NA on less then 93 octane.
second is because the quench area of a stock block (i.e. ~never machined) lt1 sucks because the squish area isnt tight. this doesnt exactly help to keep them from detonating under boost.
and third, with pump gas its real easy to detonate a forced induction setup even with a fat a/f ratio. i saw one on the dyno last weekend, it was a mustang making about 12lbs w/ 9.0:1 compression, an s-trim and it detonated right in front of me while i was watching the wideband read 11.0:1. i just dont trust pump gas with poweradders.
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Post by 97SprChrgd383 on May 7, 2005 22:03:35 GMT -5
I would say if you build your engine specifically for blowers then I would say do it. If you have a stock or close to stock motor w/ a blower, you will have problems like detonation, and destruction of the block. I would say build the block, then maybe do blower later.
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Post by '68SuperchargedLT1Camaro on May 8, 2005 9:42:35 GMT -5
What he said ^
If you plan on rebuilding the motor for forced induction, then you won't regret going with a supercharger. If you plan on just "bolting on" a Vortech or ProCharger kit, forget it. It won't last. If you want to leave the bottom end stock, go with a head and cam package.
Raymond
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Shawn
Junior Dragster
Posts: 5
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Post by Shawn on May 8, 2005 11:12:38 GMT -5
I was debating the same thing now that the Formula is going to be a street/strip brawler. But I figured for the money I'd spend on the blower, al the accessories, and then the bottom end rebuild, I could make the same power at the same cost by going with a 11:1 comp 383 with some good ported heads and a nice big cam. Thats what I'm planning to do.
Besides, I'm only looking for low 11's on DR's at the track on pump. If i wanted to go faster, I'd just swap pistons for some low compression variants, and change the cam and build a Turbocharged setup and run even faster than a blown setup.
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Post by besz28 on May 8, 2005 14:06:48 GMT -5
head and cam package here also. you will love it.
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Post by turtle on May 8, 2005 15:17:40 GMT -5
Wel you guys made my desision a whole lot easier. I've decided to scrap the whole idea of running a blown motor. Think I'll go with a head and cam setup. I'm only looking for about 400 to 450 hp(I still wanna drive it on the street), what kind of setup do you guys think I should go with.
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Post by '68SuperchargedLT1Camaro on May 8, 2005 23:26:30 GMT -5
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Post by CerwinVegaFan on May 9, 2005 0:21:02 GMT -5
I prefer NA with a little nitrous on the side. ;D
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Post by besz28 on May 9, 2005 7:17:40 GMT -5
yep what supercharged said loyd elliott all the way. he is a great guy, he will walk you threw everything, tell him your goals for the car....daily driver,strip etc....and he will offer you the perfect combo along with a cam that matches the heads which is very important for a perfect combo. you will be very happy. and the price is right also. good luck
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Post by N20Dave on May 9, 2005 17:37:27 GMT -5
Hey Ray, nice heads, Lloyd really has done some nice work. What a jump in flow from .400 to .450. They would be great on a stroker with a 10.5-1 comp for a street motor with monster torque.
On the original topic, Forced Induciton is awesome but be prepared to spend some money. bolting a blower on a stock motor is not advisable unless you have another motor being built.
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Post by turtle on May 9, 2005 18:59:29 GMT -5
Thanks for the link and pics Raymond( those heads look d@mn nice) and thanks for all the posts regarding this subject guys you've made my desision a lot easier. I've heard a little about Loydes work(All of it good), so I think I'll be going that route. Unfortunatly for me it looks like I'm gonna have to buy a beater( my formula is my daily driver) so I can still get around while my car is down. Delays delays delays oh well its all worth the wait as long as I get somthing I'm happy with.
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Post by '68SuperchargedLT1Camaro on May 9, 2005 19:21:26 GMT -5
It'll get there. Don't get discouraged. Before you know it, you'll be driven around a beast. Good Luck!  Raymond |
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Post by turtle on May 9, 2005 20:26:21 GMT -5
Appreciate it Raymond Thanks
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Post by 97SprChrgd383 on May 26, 2005 20:56:32 GMT -5
Hey Ray, nice heads, Lloyd really has done some nice work. What a jump in flow from .400 to .450. They would be great on a stroker with a 10.5-1 comp for a street motor with monster torque. On the original topic, Forced Induciton is awesome but be prepared to spend some money. bolting a blower on a stock motor is not advisable unless you have another motor being built. Well, I bolted on my procharger running 8lbs of boost on a stock lt1 w/ 90k miles on it and went to the track everyweekend and it was my daily driver and it was just fine. I put 20k miles on it and it was still going strong when I built my new engine. It is possible to bolt on a blower. |
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FD2BLK
Junior Dragster
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Post by FD2BLK on Jun 3, 2005 7:49:27 GMT -5
I lwent the N/A route because I could get simmilar results for the money with the bigger cubes. Now a 383 FI would be the best of both worlds, a ton of mid range TQ from the 383 with the HP of FI. Its only money ;D
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Post by Fire67 on Aug 16, 2005 12:44:52 GMT -5
I've been running boost on my motor since 60K miles... It all started with a 6psi powerdyne, a catback, TransGo shift kit, Vigilante, and MSD ignition.
Since then my setup has progressed to this:
Still a bone stock motor
Completely stock valvetrain
Stock TB
42lb-hr injectors
T-56 swap with a Spec stg 3 clutch and billet flywheel
Pacesetter longtubes and ORY
Mufflex 4" catback with the Spintech race muffler
Procharger D1-SC
8psi pulley (I get 10psi at 6300)
On a DynoJet Chassis dyno I made 439 corrected rwhp on a tune from PCMforless that was meant for the powerdyne. After dyno tuning by Jeremy Formato, the car put 453rwhp and 430ft-lbs to the rollers. And my injectors hit 100% duty cycle about 52-5400rpm... Peak horsepower was at 6300rpm.
Oh yeah, my stock motors now got 89,906mi on it. It still pulls strong, but is starting to get a lil blow-by now...
My blower motors in the works... Im looking for a 4-bolt block.
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Post by metalbeast on Aug 24, 2005 20:26:47 GMT -5
I am an NA man myself, but there is only so far you can go. Supercharging? Sky's the limit with the right setup  |
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Post by '68SuperchargedLT1Camaro on Aug 25, 2005 10:31:18 GMT -5
If you can't afford to build a supercharged engine, you can still have a quick NA car, for less, and you can build it in steps.
Lets look at what a typical LT1 NA build up costs assuming you do most of the work yourself. Doing a package like Lloyd Elliott's LE2 package will run you around $5,000 total if you have a bone stock LT1 vehicle. This will get you 400 Horse Power at the wheels though.
$1650 LE2 package
$200 Cold Air Intake
$320 Dual 58mm TB
$650 full lenth ceramic coated headers
$200(ballpark) two performance mufflers
$400(ballpark) extra materials and labor for exhaust work
$400 36 pound per hour injectors
$250(ballpark) upgraded fuel pump
$350(ballpark) gaskets, head bolts or studs, coolant, etc.
$650(ballpark) dyno tune
The gripe that most people have about nitrous is that it isn't available anytime, like a supercharger. If you do a head and cam package, with all of the other bolt ons, you have on demand power right there. It would be similar to having a 150 shot on a stock LT1, but ALL THE TIME. Then if you decide that you want a little extra to hang with the supercharged cars, you go ahead and pick up a nitrous kit for somewhere in the neighborhood of $600.
The nitrous is just the icing on the cake at this point, and is what can make your NA car just as fast or faster than that correctly built supecharged car your running against.
The good thing about going this route is that you don't have to tear into your short block right away. Plenty of guys are running LE2 packages with untouched bottom ends. Now adding the nitrous will start to put you in the danger zone, but you'll still have some time before you need to start thinking about doing a forged piston bottom end. You DON'T have to use a 4340 forged steel crank with H-beam rods when you rebuild the bottom either. This stuff is good insurance, but it's not absolutely neccessary. The most important thing will be a good set of forged pistons and rings, with the rings gapped properly, some ARP rod bolts, and GOOD machine work. Good quality machine work is very important. Don't over look this expense.
If you did intend to upgrade the rotating assembly on a budget, you could get by with a set of Eagle SIR rods (which can be found for around $200 a set, brand new), and an Eagle cast steel crank that can be picked up for around $180.
Just a little food for though.
Raymond
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