Stall verter ?'s

[00MysticZ]

So i have had mostly M6 fodies and never put a stall in. what size do you guys think i should go with ? i am thinking 3500 or 3800.

my mods are G2 lid , Jet Hot LT'S, TSP ORY, cam will be here next week and the heads will be here in a few weeks 5.3 heads that a friend is PP to a stage 2 for me with a PP TB

thanks Derek

[AAron]

either one is big for daily driving IMO but if it isnt daily then then id go with 3500. unless you have a big cam that makes power up top then get the 3800

[LS1MightyMouse]

I would go with a 3200 Vig

[00MysticZ]

it's not a Daliy so the 3800 would not be that big of a problem as for my cam size i am going to go with a 222/230 534/544 114 so not that big i do not even have to have a stall right away i have freinds that have 3500 and 3800 that drive them every day and do not have a problem thats why i said 3500-3800 heck i have friend that has a 96 SS Camaro that his only mods are LT's ORY and Tune for the headers and he runs a 3800

It's funny you say that LT1MightyMouse i had a chane to get one just this week for 250.00 but only used 6k miles

[SSweet97]

I have had no problems with my Yank TT 2800 stall converter. ;D

[AAron]

i had a friend with bolt ons in a '98 or '99 formula and had a 3500 that cracked off a 12.34 sec 1/4 at HRP

and that was his daily driver

[00MysticZ]

i think i am going to get a 3500 custom build from fuddle racing

[Fire67]

I had a custom built 4L60E in my car before swapping in the T-56... I ran a Vig 3600 and had no problems with driveability except a little less gas mileage. My best 60' with that converter, drag radials, and stock suspension was 1.70 and I trapped 12.1 on my stock 3.23 gears.
If i hadnt had so much bad luck with the 4L60E, I would've gone bigger on the stall speed.

[jaberwaki]

there are a few things to consider here.

1. Ls1 make power uptop (even in stock form)
2. if you have a 4l60e then your converter will be a lock up style
3. a lock up converter drives like stock after first gear wif your not at WOT
4. make sure you are looking at more then just stall speed ... STR is your TQ multiplication factor and has more to do with your 60' then stall speed

that being said, in your shoes i would go with a 4000 stall, full lock up , with no less then a 2.5 STR

on a good tire and the set up you discribed 1.60 60's hell even some 1.55 60's should be no sweat on a well prepped track

[metalbeast]

I am running a pretty small converter in my Vette. A B&M 2400 Torkmaster. I wish I had at least went with a 3000+ stall. My car has P&P Heads and a small cam. With your mods I would not go smaller than a 3500 Stall.

[DocSpeed]

jaberwaki said:

there are a few things to consider here.

1. Ls1 make power uptop (even in stock form)
2. if you have a 4l60e then your converter will be a lock up style
3. a lock up converter drives like stock after first gear wif your not at WOT
4. make sure you are looking at more then just stall speed ... STR is your TQ multiplication factor and has more to do with your 60' then stall speed

that being said, in your shoes i would go with a 4000 stall, full lock up , with no less then a 2.5 STR

on a good tire and the set up you discribed 1.60 60's hell even some 1.55 60's should be no sweat on a well prepped track

Good info....

[lifb]

3200-3600 would be perfect, especially with that cam you mentioned above. I've driven a few cars with stalls in this range and they aren't bad at all for city driving, You just lose 1-2mpg city, highway mileage won't change.

Crazyz28

[lectrocrew]

Hi everyone. I'm new here but I'm about to jump in if nobody minds.
The 60e/ 65e can be made to run without a lock-up converter but unless your car is track only, I would think you like the lock-up for cruising as I do.
One thing about a high stall converter with lock-up;
The RPM difference between the converter clutch not-locked and locked with a high stall converter is much more than a low stall {stockish} unit. The friction {heat} and torque burden on all the involved parts related to locking the TC is much greater and this factor will quickly trash your lock-up clutch if:
#1- the PCM is not programmed for a less '%TPS vs VSS' apply value.
#2- since the PWM control tends to lock the converter slower than the older pre 95 F-body units, it would be a wise move {anti-friction wise} to modify the TCC apply time in the PCM and increase the fluid flow rate to the apply clutch via valve body modifications {I used Sonnax} and eliminating the check ball in the capsule located in the end of the input shaft {but re-install the capsule after removing the ball from it.
A multi-disc lock-up unit will last longer before failure, but because of the excessive difference of RPM between locked and un-lock, as I mentioned, even the multi disc will not hold up long without proper PCM programming and VB mods if applied at high %TPS vs VSS and at 100% TPS.
BTW: I doubt I would choose a 3800 for an LS1 with a 222/230 534/544 114 cam and PP heads, but I drive a lot of street miles between runs at the track. On the other hand, the 3800 will really help the 60'.

[jaberwaki]

3800 with lock up is very streetable... i would however recomend a really good tranny cooler

[impaladave]

Call Andre at Edge Racing converters. He will take all your info into concideration and build a custom converter for about $550. I had a $600 converter before that ( bought without researching) and it was very mushy. My 3000 stall is right there. Yank and Vig are also great, but I thing Edge is the best quality to price deal. Also Andre is the man, he is super knowledgable, and builds to your Weight, cam, Street or Race needs.

I'm not a part owner, just very happy with the service, and quality. Also got a cool shirt and stickers.

Just my $.02,
Dave

[yellerr]

I have a 3200 Vig in mine. My 60' 1.72 to 1.74.
I'm thinking on going with a higher 3500 next.